Photo Credits: Jack Hennessy
The phrase “ditch cleaning” is sometimes used in reference to how best to prep wild turkey legs. What is “ditch cleaning,” exactly? If you’re asking, that’s a good sign—because no primal cut from any wild game should ever be discarded. Still, it’s understandable why so many hunters leave behind or give away the wings, thighs, and legs from a spring gobbler—they’re tough—unbearably so—if not cooked correctly.
Tough Cuts Require Time
The most important thing to understand about any hardworking cut of meat from wild game: there is no such thing as instant gratification when it comes to cooking these parts. They require time, proper methods, and low heat to eventually yield tender bites. And yes, they will yield. It just takes time, as the collagen first hardens and then transforms into gelatin through low-and-slow cooking.
Low-and-slow cooking methods are perfect for breaking down and
tenderizing tough wild-game cuts, especially wild-turkey legs and thighs.
What we are working with in this recipe is called a “braise,” which involves searing the meat and then cooking it slowly in liquid over an extended period of time. This method is perfect for tough wild game cuts, as the low-and-slow approach breaks down tough muscle fibers while the liquid keeps the meat from drying out.
Start by Seasoning and Aging
We recommend performing what could be considered a dual dry-brine and aging process for your wild turkey thigh and leg. When you rub down the meat with any Bearded Butcher Blend and allow it to rest uncovered in the fridge for a few days, aging occurs. This means enzymes begin to denature the meat, slightly tenderizing it, while the muscles darken and the flavor concentrates. The salt from the seasoning enhances flavor and also helps retain moisture during cooking.
Aging meat deepens both color and flavor but also results in more tender
protein as naturally occurring enzymes help denature the meat.
The sauce here is called sugo because sugo means “sauce” in Italian—and, truth be told, this isn’t exactly a marinara. It’s closest to a Bolognese, but since there’s no cream, it’s simply sugo. It sounds fancy, and because this sauce is indeed tasty and rich, it deserves a fancy name.
You're welcome to experiment with sauces and liquids for this braising method, but the core technique should remain the same when trying to tenderize tough cuts: sear the meat first to caramelize the exterior, then simmer it low and slow in sauce or another liquid—likely for at least 4 hours.
A Dutch oven is basically a must for this recipe, as it retains both heat and moisture extremely well during low-temp oven cooking (in this case, 275°F). Can you use a Crock-Pot? Absolutely. Those things are phenomenal for low-and-slow cooking, which is exactly what’s required when dealing with tough game.
Ingredients (makes 4 servings):
- Wild Turkey Thigh and Leg
- Favorite Bearded Butcher Blend Seasoning
- Olive Oil
For the Sauce:
- 2 large Carrots, minced
- 1 medium yellow Onion, minced
- 4 large Garlic Cloves, roasted
- 2-4 cups Beef Stock
- 1 cup Red Wine
- 12 ounces Crushed Tomatoes
- 8.5 ounces Sundried Tomatoes
- 1 tablespoon Balsamic Vinegar
- 1 teaspoon fish sauce
- 1 full sprig fresh Thyme
- 1 full spring fresh Sage
- 1 full sprig Oregano
- 3 Bay Leaves
- 1 teaspoon Kosher Salt
- 1 teaspoon ground Black Pepper
- 1 cup Bob’s Red Mill Polenta
- 3 cups water
- 1/2 teaspoon Kosher Salt
Optional roasted vegetables:
- Asparagus
- Carrots
- Baby Broccoli
Optional Garnish:
- Sliced scallions for garnish (optional)
Fully thaw wild turkey thigh and leg, and dust all sides with Bearded Butcher Blend seasoning. Allow the meat to sit in the fridge, uncovered, for 3 days.
When ready to cook, using a Dutch oven, add a thin layer of olive oil and heat to medium. Separate the thigh and leg, and add to the bottom of the Dutch oven once the oil is heated to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. You want to hear “applause” upon adding the meat for a proper sear. No applause? Immediately remove and allow the oil to continue to heat.
Adequately sear all sides of the turkey thigh and leg, then set them aside. Add the chopped onion, along with a little more olive oil, to the bottom of the Dutch oven (after removing the turkey), and lightly salt and pepper. Once the onions are browned, add the chopped carrots and a little more olive oil. Continue to stir until the carrots are mostly soft. Add the turkey back to the Dutch oven, along with the garlic cloves, and turn the burner heat to low. Allow to cook for a half hour. This will allow some juices from the turkey to drip down into the onions and carrots.
After a half hour, remove the turkey thigh and leg and set aside while you add the onions, carrots, and garlic to a blender or food processor. I recommend using a blender if you have it, for a better, thinner sauce consistency in the end. To the blender or food processor, also add the sundried tomatoes and crushed tomatoes. Blend thoroughly, then add all blender or food processor contents back to the Dutch oven. Preheat oven to 275.
Add the remaining sauce ingredients to the Dutch oven (beef stock, red wine, balsamic vinegar, fish sauce, salt and pepper, sprigs of thyme, sage, oregano, and bay leaves). Thoroughly stir all ingredients together. Add the turkey thigh and leg to the sauce in the Dutch oven. Place the lid on the Dutch oven and place the Dutch oven in the oven.
Check every half hour to an hour to make sure liquids mostly cover the turkey meat. If too low, add beef stock back to the sauce.
Roast the turkey in the sauce in the Dutch oven for 4 hours at 275. When ready, the meat should easily come off the bone. If it doesn’t after 4 hours, turn the oven up to 300 and check every half hour until the meat is tender.
Make sure to salt the sauce to taste. What this means: if the sauce is bland, add a bit more salt and stir. The goal is not a salty sauce, but rather a not-bland sauce. Ideally, you want to find that sweet spot where the sauce is flavorful (not bland) but not salty.
To make the polenta, follow the instructions on the bag. For Bob’s Red Mill, bring 3 cups of water to a low boil, add 1 cup polenta and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt (I lowered the salt amount here). Turn heat to low and stir frequently until water is fully absorbed (should take about 5 minutes). Cover until ready to serve.
If roasting vegetables, you may wish to put them in the oven alongside the Dutch oven 30–45 minutes prior to preparing to serve. Lightly oil, salt, and pepper.
To serve, remove the herb sprigs and bay leaves from the Dutch oven. Remove the turkey thigh and leg, and pull the meat from the bones with either tongs or forks, and finely shred or mince. Add shredded or minced turkey back to the sauce in the Dutch oven.
Add polenta to a dish, followed by perhaps roasted vegetables, then a scoop of sauce-infused wild turkey and extra sauce. Feel welcome to garnish with scallions. Enjoy!
