Deer shanks, whether from front or hindquarter, are located at the bottom of each leg,
above the knee joint but below the main roasts. They are packed full of silver skin and
sinew, with muscle groups strung together courtesy of a great deal of collagen. Subpar
meat grinders will struggle to turn shank meat into hamburger, leaving hunters and
butchers to make that crucial decision: How do we make the most of this deer-shank
meat?
For some, the answer is osso buco, or ossobuco, a classic Italian dish often found on
the menus of fine-dining restaurants. It is traditionally made with veal shanks cut
crosswise, which are then seared and braised in a sauce over an extended period of
time.
Yes, with a deer shank, you can go the route of delicacy and opt for osso buco, or you
can keep the entire shank whole and prepare it for something just as tasty—but maybe
not as fancy.
Prepping a Deer Shank
*All steps listed in this article are for shanks from either the front or hindquarter.
Using a sharp, thin fillet knife, try to trim away as many thin slivers of silver skin as possible. There isn’t a lot of meat to begin with on shanks, so we want to hold on to as much as possible. Some silver skin and sinew will be unreachable, as it sits between various muscle groups. Keep in mind that a lot of that will turn to gelatin over an extended period of cooking, and even the silver skin you may miss on the outside, that will likely get scorched off when searing the shank over a fire.
Once trimmed, season the deer shank well on all sides with your favorite Bearded Butcher Blend Seasoning. Allow the shank to sit in the fridge to absorb spices for a minimum of 3 hours.
Understanding Collagen in Tough, Lean Cuts of Meat
Collagen is connective tissue in harder-working muscles like front shoulders and even
chests (think the brisket on beef). Collagen will harden before eventually, after many
hours, turning into gelatin. More collagen is present in these tough cuts and the low-
and-slow method is key to making these cuts tender.
Because venison is so lean—with nowhere near the fat of a pork shoulder, for example—it is important to keep the meat moist during the low-and-slow process. For this particular recipe, we are incorporating a sous vide cooker.
Why a Sous Vide?
A sous-vide cooker is a fantastic solution for tenderizing tougher cuts of meat over a
longer period of time. Because a sous-vide cooker regulates a water bath to within 1/10 of a degree Fahrenheit, little to no effort is required by the cook to make certain meat cooks at exactly the intended temperature.
Also, because anything cooked via a sous vide must be sealed tightly in a food-safe
plastic bag, doing so prevents meat from drying out. This is critical for lean wild meats
like venison.
Other uses for a sous vide include slowly raising the internal temp of steaks ahead of
reverse searing—a process that ensures a perfect cook from edge to edge and an impeccable crust, all of which contributes to a preferred mouthfeel. With this particular recipe, we are actually starting off with a thorough sear over a woodfire, which will build flavor, ahead of cooling, sealing, and sous-vide cooking the whole deer shank.
Directions for Cooking a Deer Shank:
Ingredients:
- One Deer Shank
- Your Favorite Bearded Butcher Blend Seasoning
For sous-vide bag:
- A few sprigs each of fresh rosemary, thyme, oregano, and/or sage
- Four large cloves of fresh garlic, peeled and smashed
- Four pats of salted butter
- 1/4 cup port wine
- 1/2 cup beef stock
Directions:
- Trim off silver skin and season. Allow to sit in fridge for minimum 3 hours to
absorb spices. - Start a wood fire and once smoldering and flaming up, lightly oil the deer shank
and sear—almost char—on all sides. - Remove deer shank once adequately seared and allow to sit in the fridge for at
least a few hours to cool ahead of sealing. - Seal deer shank with ingredients listed for sous-vide bag. A chamber vacuum
sealer works best for this step. - Sous-vide cook the sealed bag at 190 F for 10-12 hours. You may need to weigh
down the sous-vide bag with a plate or another object to keep it from floating.
After 10-12 hours, lower the sous-vide temp to 155 F until ready to serve. - Keep the juices left in the sous-vide bag for either dipping or drizzling over the
deer shank upon serving. The meat should fall off the bone and be fork-tender.
A solid cook over an open fire adds flavor by caramelizing the outside of the
meat but also creates a hearty crust that will keep even after several hours in a sous-vide bath.
